Over the past few decades, retinol has earned its spot in the skincare hall of fame. Right up there with daily SPF, it’s a product that countless derms swear by to clear breakouts, fade dark spots, and smooth fine lines. As powerful as it is, there’s a catch: the very reason retinol works so well is also why it’s not always the right move. There are key moments when dialing it back—or pressing pause altogether—is actually the healthier choice for your skin.
Ahead, you’ll find a refresher on the key benefits of retinol. Plus: when it’s best to take a ‘retinol holiday.’
What Does Retinol Do?
Retinol is one of the most overachieving skincare products on the market. Its many benefits can be chalked up to its ability to stimulate skin cell turnover (i.e., shed old skin cells and replace it with fresh, healthy ones) and boost collagen. Annette Czernik, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Stamford, Connecticut, calls out its ability to firm the skin, reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, and fade dark spots—no matter if they’re caused by sun exposure, or other types of skin damage. And again, it’s also one of the gold-standard ingredients to clear acne as it helps unclog pores.
“With consistent use, many people notice smoother skin, more even texture, and a brighter overall complexion,” says Dr. Czernik. “Dermatologists value retinol because one product can improve multiple concerns at once, making it a reliable part of many long-term skincare routines.”
5 Times to Pause Retinol
Retinol’s an incredible ingredient to include in your pro-aging or clarifying skincare regimen. That said, sometimes it’s a smarter idea to lay off and give your skin a break from the potent active. Here’s when you should reconsider your use.
1. When you’ll be getting more sun
Have a beach vacation or poolside hang on the books? It may be best to press pause leading up to either—especially if your skin is sensitive and/or you burn easily—as retinol can make skin more sensitive to UV rays and increase the risk of sunburn. However, if you use adequate sun protection—including SPF 30 minimum and you wear a wide-brimmed hat—you may not need to stop your retinol entirely, says Dr. Czernik.
2. When you get in-office skin treatments
In-office skincare treatments like lasers, chemical peels, and microneedling (as well as waxing) require you to pause your retinol both before and after treatment. While it’s best to heed the advice of your derm or practitioner, about five to seven days tends to be the standard amount of buffer room in both directions. These breaks help to minimize irritation and allow the skin to heal properly, says Dr. Czernik.
3. When you’re using strong exfoliating products
“Someone should stop using retinol if they’ve recently added several other strong exfoliating products, such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid,” says Dr. Czernik. “Using too many active ingredients at once can overwhelm the skin and cause significant irritation.”
While you don’t necessarily have to stop retinol entirely, at the very least, be sure to avoid using exfoliants and retinol in the same lineup. Depending on your skin’s tolerance, better options include switching off the two actives from one night to the next, or using exfoliants in the morning and retinol at night.
4. If the ‘retinol uglies’ are your norm
Retinol use often brings with it an initial purging period, commonly referred to as the ‘retinol uglies.’ While dryness, flaking, and a surge of breakouts is common during initial use, this shouldn’t be your norm after using them for longer stretches of it. According to Dr. Czernik, you’ll want to pause your retinol if your skin routinely becomes very dry, red, or irritated, or if it peels excessively post-use. “Continuing to use it can further damage the skin barrier and make recovery take longer,” she says.
5. If you’re pregnant
Lastly, you should take an extended retinol holiday if you become pregnant to avoid the risk of birth defects.
Tip: If you’re still on the hunt to tackle breakouts and pigmentation, azelaic acid is a pregnancy-safe alternative. And if you’re looking for a replacement to help firm the skin, search for a serum or moisturizer with peptides.
The Takeaway
Unlike many other trending ingredients, retinol continually earns its reputation as a skincare MVP. But in spite of its many rewards, it’s not without its potential risks—and there are a handful of instances in which it’s best to keep it sitting on your shelf. Above all, you should pause use if and when your skin barrier becomes compromised, and if you need some extra time and TLC to let it heal and bounce back. “The goal is to keep your skin healthy and consistent, not to push through irritation,” Dr. Czernik concludes.
